I just came back from an 11-day trip to Buenos Aires to visit my family. I’d like to start off by saying that 11 days is not enough for Buenos Aires, and definitely not enough for Argentina as a whole – especially during the World Cup. I probably don’t have to clarify that I basically ate my way through the town, not only eating amazing home-made meals by all of my family members, but also exploring a bit more of the gastronomic options available – some traditional, others not. With that being said, I thought I would share some reviews of places I went to eat at. All food images are my own :b .
Guerrin – The best pizza in Buenos Aires
This place is famous for a reason. Right in the downtown area by the Obelisco, Guerrin hosts hundreds of hungry, pizza loving tourists and locals alike. Ask anyone who lives in Buenos Aires, Guerrin is where it’s at. You can sit down and enjoy a formal dinner, or you can order by the slice at the front and eat at the standing bar like the locals do. Go for the traditional mozzarella and add a slice of faina (made from chickpea flour) to it. Trust me.
Imperio – Also the best pizza in Buenos Aires
My father, husband, and grandmother all say that this is also the best pizza in Buenos Aires. I can’t pick between the two to be honest but I lean closer to Guerrin if I have to choose where to go. Regardless, this pizza place is the same format of Guerrin. I would go for the same Muzza and Faina and I’ve heard the “Fugazetta Rellena” is where it’s at (although I’ve never tried it).
This was for my dad
Parrilla Bar Polo – Bien de barrio
I went to San Telmo, an older town that has an antique market. I highly recommend this part of Buenos Aires as the cobblestone streets are a nice view within themselves, the buildings all have an old town flare and the market itself is filled not only with antiques, but many options to eat, drink wine and more. I bought an antique ring that I had seen there two years ago when I went with my brother (I had fallen in love with it but it was too expensive at the time). I asked the vendor where we can find some traditional parrillada nearby. He directed us to Parrilla Bar Polo. But he let us know that is was “Bien de Barrio,” meaning a regular, not high-end stop for locals. I was immediately in. Parrilla Bar Polo is basically just a small store with a grill in the front. It is not fancy… as a matter of fact, the place is kinda falling apart. They were playing soccer on the T.V. there was another table of 4 locals finishing their meal, and we sat down on a wooden table with a red and white-checkered tablecloth. The server immediately came to say hello, and notified us of the cut options they were grilling for the day. We went with Vacio with a side of carrot salad and tomato salad. BOMB. I personally loved this place because it felt like I was eating at home. There were people coming in and out of the back door picking up orders and at one point a cat walked in. I was into it.
La Carniceria – Hipster parrillada
My cousin suggested this place because we mentioned that we wanted to eat meat. We made a reservation for a Friday night a few days in advance because this place fills up quickly and it’s a small space. This is a less “authentic” argentine place because they incorporate argentine cuts of meat with different fusions. It is located in Palermo, one of the trendiest spots in Buenos Aires. It’s not touristy, but almost hipster and fresh. It was real good. We had the smoked provoleta with pear, the molleja on corn bread, and egg, chorizo and potato starters… we were 6. Then we got the parrilla cut, pork and some sort of smoked cut that is cooked for like 8 hours. What… Anyway, the portion sizes are huge so I suggest splitting an entrée if you are going to have appetizers. Oh, and definitely get some wine with your meal. Highly recommended for a night out with friends.
Don Julio – Touristic but worth it
This was recommended to us because we wanted to eat “amazing traditional parrillada.” We got just that. Don Julio is in the heart of Palermo Soho, a touristic area in Palermo filled with retail, restaurants, craft breweries and other bars. When you walk up to the restaurant, there is a host there, if you did not make a reservation there will most likely be a wait, but it’s all good because they give you champagne while you wait on the sidewalk of a well-lit and beautifully decorated corner of a cobblestone road. Once you are seated the service is impeccable. Amazing wine, perfectly cooked meat. Pure traditional argentine culinary bliss. It comes at a price though. We paid $150 USD for this meal which is very steep for Buenos Aires, but you are going to be having a hands-down amazing meal.
Nola – Hipster bar with the best fried food
I have been obsessed with this place since the first time that I tried their fried molleja in aioli sauce because it is absolutely bomb-tastic. They have real good local craft beer (all draft), and have a very nice atmosphere. They serve Cajun food with an Argentine and I can absolutely dig it -- especially a few beers deep. They have a different sandwich every day so make sure that you read the chalk board carefully cause you don’t want to miss that option.
These are all places that I’d highly recommend you eat at… blindly.
For more on my travels, follow me on IG at @milamarianaa.